Wow, Cape Town sure is one of those cities that left me speechless right from the beginning. Arriving into Cape Town means outstanding views over a coastal mountain range, white sandy beaches and the magnificent Cape Peninsula.
Cape Town has it all, whether you are an active hiker, a relaxed sunbather or a gourmet – you name it, you get it!
Often referred to as Mother City, it’s the perfect place to either start or end a trip through South Africa. It’s conveniently connected by direct flights to many different European cities and has no (or just one hour) time difference to central Europe which guarantees you jetlag-free stays! Often integrated in a complete South African itinerary, Cape Town speaks for itself. Thus, an entire blog post is dedicated to this versatile and fascinating city at the foot of Table Mountain.
IN A NUTSHELL
MY TOP 3 SIGHTSEEING TIPS
Hiking up to Lion’s Head
Visiting the colourful houses in Bo-Kaap
Soaking in the sun at Camps Bay
MY TOP 3 FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS
Aubergine Restaurant (many vegetarian options)
V&A Food Market at Waterfront
STAY
Cape Town’s location at the shore of the Atlantic Ocean makes it a rather windy destination and thus, has very reasonable temperatures. I would therefore highly recommend to visit any time during South African spring, summer or autumn, rather than the chilly winter months (June – August).
LENGTH OF STAY
It is a very multi-cultural city and to soak in as much as possible of this atmosphere and to experience the “local” life, several weeks or months would probably be recommendable. However, to get a first glimpse of the “Mother City”, 3 to 5 days is a good time.
WHERE TO STAY
Well, I think there is no “best option” as Cape Town provides a gazillion accommodations in many different parts of the city. As you may know, I love small and cosy boutique accommodations which is why my favourite places to stay are some of the guest houses located in the areas of Gardens and Oranjezicht. Perfect lodging is e.g. provided by Kensington Place surrounded by Table Mountain. You even get free parking which definitely is a plus.
If you prefer a, let’s say, posher and more central alternative the One & Only Cape Town will do. It stretches along the V & A Waterfront with heaps of shops, bars and restaurants just at your doorstep. The views, the rooms and the breakfast are just heavenly.
NEIGHBOURHOODS
Against all odds, Cape Town feels like a pretty safe city. During all my visits we explored it mainly by foot. Nevertheless, I recommend to pick up your rental car (if you intend to continue your South Africa adventure outside Cape Town) directly after landing at the airport. A car is super convenient if you want to go on day trips to e.g., the Cape Peninsula (which I will talk about in the section day trip). Also, to reach the bottom of Table Mountain, famous Bloubergstrand or Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, your own car might be ideal.
BO-KAAP
This former Malay quarter became famous due to its colourful houses. Expect to share the most famous photo spots with several other tourist (still worth visiting, though). It is located between Waterkant and Gardens, mainly along Long Street. It’s manageable in size and therefore ideal to be discovered on an individual walk. Due to its Muslim background, you will also see a mosque with its minaret and if your timing is right, you’ll be able to hear the muezzin. Also located in this area is another one of my favourite Cape Town accommodations, Rouge on Rose.
V&A WATERFRONT
The V&A Waterfront is a very neat and beautiful area located right at the shore. It offers a large choice of restaurants (e.g. for great, local seafood). One of my favourite spots here is the amazing and very authentic artisanal / handcraft market, where you can get unique souvenirs and at the same time support local businesses from underprivileges minorities like e.g. women living in townships. Right next door, you’ll find one of my food recommendations, the V&A Food Market at Waterfront, which is perfect to grab a bite in between shopping. Enjoy your snack while admiring fantastic views over the waterfront and Table Mountain as the perfect backdrop.
GARDENS / ORANJEZICHT
These two areas are somehow connected and are the ideal “suburbs” for your base. They offer a large variety of accommodations, mainly guesthouses and Bed & Breakfasts. Furthermore, especially along Bree and Kloof Street you’ll find heaps of trendy cafés, restaurants and bars, where you can chill, work or simply have a drink. It’s a really hip and lively area and definitely not to be missed. One of my all-time favourite eateries, Aubergine Restaurant, can also be found in Gardens (even though not directly located along one of the two mentioned streets).
TABLE MOUNTAIN / LION’S HEAD
From Garden or Oranjezicht it’s a short drive of less than 10 minutes to reach the foot of either of the two. You can get there with your own car if you make sure to arrive early to get a parking spot. Otherwise, you can also take public transportation or one of the Hop-on Hop-off buses. While both mountains (as well as Signal Hill) are part of the Table Mountain Massif located within the Table Mountain National Park, both experiences are unique!
Table Mountain is probably the best-known landmark of Cape Town and the views from up there are spectacular. Just bear in mind a few things before going:
On top of Table Mountain, you are exposed to wind and weather, much more than down in the city – weather can change quickly, so be prepared for any eventuality
If you are travelling in main season, make sure to pre-purchase your ticket for the cable car online to avoid the generally long queues at the ticket office
It is highly recommended to only hike up to Table Mountain if you are an experienced hiker. The hike takes up to 3.5 hours (one-way). Alternatively, you can book a guided hike with “Hike Table Mountain”. They offer different routes.
Lion’s Head became more and more popular in recent times, mainly through the exposure on social media. Even though it’s not as high as Table Mountain, it’s one of the finest (if not THE finest) view points above Cape Town. You’ll get to enjoy a 360° panoramic view, including Table Mountain, the beach suburbs, Cape Peninsula and the city centre. Know before you go:
There’s no cable car going to the top, so you have to use your muscles
The hike takes about 3-4 hours (return), make sure to pack enough water and sun protection
2 routes lead to the mountain top – a proper trail around the mountain which offers breathtaking views all along the way and a more rock scrambling trail which includes metal ladders and some chains at certain parts – pick the one which is suitable for your level of fitness!
Don’t feed the dassies (yes, they are cute, but like all the wildlife, they’re not supposed to be fed)
If you consider all these facts, there’s nothing more to say, than “ENJOY THE VIEWS!”.
CAMPS BAY
After a strenuous hike or a shopping marathon, it’s a great way to round the day off at the beach. Apart from Camps Bay, there are other options like Clifton or Sea Point, however I have only visited Camps Bay and really liked the vibe there. Take a drink in one of the many cocktail bars (personally, I can recommend Chinchilla Rooftop Café & Bar ) with amazing views over the beach and and the esplanade.
DAYTRIP
Cape Town is the perfect base for a variety of day trips. So, if you prefer to extend your stay in this beautiful city, I can ensure you that you won’t get bored. By far my favourite day trip, is the road trip along the coast of the Cape Peninsula. I highly recommend to start with this day trip early in the morning, as there is plenty to see and time certainly flies.
We decided to travel the route clockwise to follow the best lighting conditions and to be able to witness the sunset before heading back to the city. The itinerary, roughly summarised, looked like this: Cape Town – Muizenberg Beach – Simon’s Town with Boulders Beach – Cape of Good Hope – Chapman’s Peak Drive – Cape Town
MUIZENBERG BEACH
After about half an hour’s drive, we reached the suburb Muizenberg which is probably the most famous surf town around Cape Town. The sand beaches are beautifully wide and flat and due to the fact that the town is located at the Indian Ocean, the water temperature is several degrees warmer than along the Atlantic coast on the other side of Cape Town. Hence, it’s no surprise that Muizenberg gets quite busy during summer months, when many Capetonians will escape the heat in the city to enjoy a relaxing beach getaway.
The most distinctive landmarks of the town are without any doubt the colourful, wooden beach houses, directly located along the sandy beach.
SIMON’S TOWN – BOULDERS BEACH
About another 30 minutes further down the east coast of the Cape Peninsula, you will find Boulders Beach which is famous for the penguin colony. There are several turnoffs and we caught the “wrong” one at first (which was Seaforth Beach Parking Lot). If you intend to visit the African Penguin colony
at Boulders Beach and stroll along the boardwalk which connects Boulders Beach with Foxy Beach (even accessible by stroller or wheelchair), I highly recommend to use the parking next to the visitor centre. As Boulders Beach is part of the Table Mountain National Park, a conservation fee / entry fee of R 170 per adult (which is about CHF 10, as of 2020) needs to be paid. If you are happy to only watch the penguins from further away, parts of the boardwalk can be used for free.
Apart from the penguins, it’s also worth the visit due to the beautiful landscape, shaped by the perfect granite boulders, which are responsible for the beach’s name.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
It then takes roughly another 20 minutes’ drive to reach the entry gate to the Cape of Good Hope National Park. Be aware of the opening times of the national park – it is usually open from sunrise to sunset and you are not allowed to stay in the national park at night. Again, there is a conservation fee / entry fee to be paid, which amounts to R 340 per adult (about CHF 20, as of 2020). During high season, you might have to be very patient, as the line of cars can get extremely long. Also, don’t underestimate the driving time from the gate to reach the famous landmarks (lighthouse and Cape of Good Hope sign). Once again, you will need to drive for about 20 minutes to get to the southernmost tip of the Cape Peninsula. However, it’s a really scenic drive through the national park, where you can even spot wildlife such as ostriches or baboons.
To reach the lighthouse from the parking, there are two options – you can walk up along the pedestrian pathways which I would highly recommend. The views over the ocean are mesmerizing and, in my opinion, a bit less touristy. Be prepared that it gets windier the closer you get to the top. So, hold on tight to any hat, scarf or other lose items…
The second option would be the funicular which costs R 85 (about CHF 5, as of 2020) for a return trip.
To get to the famous wooden Cape of Good Hope sign, there is a turn off from the main road which leads more along the coast. It’s probably the most crowded place I have seen during my time in South Africa.
I personally preferred the quieter spots away from the crowds, where you can truly enjoy nature. There are tons of possibilities to just stop along the road, to listen to the sea and to feel the spray on your skin. Enjoy the pure perfection of this resilient landscape, shaped by the roughness of the sea.
Fun fact: Did you know, that the Cape of Good Hope is not the southernmost tip of continental Africa, as sometimes referred to? The location, to which this superlative applies to, can be found about 150 km east at Cape Agulhas (which you could visit, if you are driving along Garden Route).
CHAPMAN’S PEAK DRIVE
Before the sun sets, it’s time to hit the road again. To enjoy a stress-free drive back to Cape Town along the peninsulas west coast, I would recommend to at least schedule another 2 hours. There are several view points not to be missed. Apart from the highlight, the Chapman’s Peak Drive itself, I particularly enjoyed the view from Noordhoek over Long Beach. It’s an incredibly wide and long sand beach, where you can even find a ship wreck (the wreck of the SS Kakapo).
The actual Chapman’s Peak Drive stretches on a length of 9 km between Noordhoek and Hout Bay. There are toll stations on both ends of the drive where a regular car needs to pay a toll of R 52 (about CHF 3, as of 2020). In my opinion, it’s absolutely worth it, as it is one of the most spectacular scenic drives in the world. It’s a strongly winding road along the shores and therefore the speed limit is quite low. This makes sense though, as there are many amazing lookout points, where you get to enjoy stunning views over the sheer beauty of this landscape. You’ll also understand that the construction of this panoramic road has been a masterpiece of engineering. Especially when the sun sets, the light is breathtaking and illuminates the cliffs in an orange colour, which contrasts with the lush green of the flora and the turquoise water. The perfect ending to a perfect day!
Commenti