"Pura Vida", "Gallo Pinto" and "Puente Angosto" are terms you will most likely encounter more than once when travelling through Costa Rica.
After 539 days without a flight (thanks to the Covid pandemic), it was an extremely spontaneous decision at the beginning of March 2021 to fly to Costa Rica; one of the countries which was open for tourism and which can be reached by direct flight from Zurich (and many other airports in Europe).
Due to the very short preparation time, the expectations were not that high; seeing some of the Costa Rican animals (like sloths or toucans), spending some time at a beach and a bit of hiking were the aim. This much can be revealed: All the expectations were by far exceeded!
IN A NUTSHELL
MY TOP 3 SIGHTSEEING TIPS:
Guided 2-day hike through Corcovado National Park with Osa Wild
Rio Celeste in Tenorio National Park
Free thermal springs in the area of La Fortuna
MY TOP 3 FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS:
El Barco Restaurant at Hotel Capitán Suizo
Rainforest Café La Fortuna
STAY
Costa Rica is a great destination to visit year-round. There is a dry and a wet season, however both seasons have their perks. During dry season from December to April, road-trippers and beach holiday addicts will find perfect conditions, less mosquitos and lots of sunshine. Wet season (July to October) however makes the adventures in the rain forest even more authentic and you can expect less crowds and lower prices. Just be careful when driving, as the road conditions get even more challenging.
LENGTH OF STAY
The perfect length of stay depends a lot on your interests and your pace of travelling. To get a first impression of the country, a 2 to 3 weeks road trip is great. You will have the possibility to experience many different ecosystems, such as rainforest, cloudforest, beaches and volcanic areas, all within a rather small radius, compared to many other self-drive countries.
WHERE TO STAY
The versatility of the accommodations in Costa Rica is impressive. They range from hostels, ranger stations and tree houses to glamping, luxury boutique resorts and beach resorts, to just name a few. Some accommodations that I personally loved and can highly recommend:
Capitán Suizo - a stunning beachfront boutique hotel located just outside Tamarindo at the end of the bay. I particularly cherished their delicious food and the amazing location right at the beach
Celeste Mountain Lodge - an innovative eco lodge at Tenorio National Park, which even has its own, private hiking trails through primary forest. The meals are simply fantastic, a Tico-fusion cuisine
Chayote Lodge - a lovely boutique hotel in the mountainous central valley with stunning views over the volcanos and San José. From the private terraces you can observe the birdlife
If you like to travel independently, a rental car is the most suitable means of transportation. Bear in mind, that the road conditions in Costa Rica cannot be compared to our roads though. Deep potholes, large rocks and traffic jams due to animals crossing are just some of the obstacles you might encounter along the way. And also the extremely narrow bridges (Puente Angosto) are not to be underestimated...
But now, let's start the journey through a versatile and breathtaking country in Central America. During these 2 weeks you will cover a lot of different highlights (except the Caribbean part).
DAY 1 - SAN JOSÉ TO SAN GERARDO DE DOTA (90KM / 2 HOURS)
After a first night in San José, I highly recommend starting your journey towards Los Quetzales National Park, which is located about 80 kilometres south of the capital. The road leads you to a hilly landscape with stunning views along the way. Without really noticing it you will reach an altitude above 2000 metres above sea level. So be prepared to get some warmer layers out of your suitcase.
At Los Quetzales National Park you will be asked to pay for an admission fee (which is the case in every national park in Costa Rica). Once this is settled you can choose between different hiking trails. We decided to hike without a guide and went on the 2 kilometres trail "Ojo de Agua) and on the "Circular Trail" which is a bit shorter. Both trails lead through cloud forest and are the perfect habitat for a large variety of birds.
The Savegre Hotel Natural Reserve & Spa is a great place to stay afterwards, perfectly embedded in a lush, tropical garden and even with its own hiking trails.
DAY 2 - SAN GERARDO DE DOTA TO SIERPE (170KM / 3 HOURS)
From San Gerardo de Dota a more or less 3 hours long drive brings you down to sea level, to the Pacific coast. If you are planning to stay at Corcovado National Park during the following days, I suggest to drop off your rental car in Sierpe (this has to be pre-arranged with your rental car company) to save some cash and to not have to bother where to leave your car during this time.
From Sierpe you will be transfered to Drake Bay, which is about an hour by boat. The transfer is an experience in itself, as it leads you through mangroves and stunning channels auntil you reach the open sea for the last 10 to 15 minutes. Depending on where you stay , you will either be dropped off at a suitable beach (prepare to get wet feet, so it is recommendable to wear water proof footwear) or at Drake Bay itself.
We stayed at Pirate Cove Hotel, a bit outside town, in the most perfect location at the end of the bay. A super nice Swiss host, good food and the most perfect sunset are only a few of the benefits when staying here!
DAY 3 & 4 - CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK
Corcovado National Park is one of the most species-rich areas in the world, located in the south-west of Costa Rica on Osa Peninsula.
There are many different sections from where you can enter the park, most of the however only accessible by boat. The majority of the tourists visits the park on a one-day excursion from Drake Bay. Due to various recommendations we decided to book a 2-day guided hike with the local tour company Osa Wild, where you will have an overnight stay at La Sirena Ranger Station.
And we were definitely not disappointed!
Expect to spend 2 days in the wild, where you will observe an abundance of wildlife, hike through primary and secondary forest, bath in creeks, cross rivers by foot, sleep in an open dormitory only protected by mosquito nets, enjoy the most unobstructed stargazing and so much more.
Just bear in mind that the humidity and temperatures are high all year round and you need to have a decent fitness level to be able to walk the 20km on the second day in these conditions. If you are fine with that, this is a Must-Do on your Costa Rica itinerary!
You will find a more detailed description about this 2-day adventure in a separate blog post.
DAY 5 - SIERPE TO MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK (120KM / 1.45 HOURS)
After the time away from civilisation, it is time to get the rental car back. The car is delivered to Sierpe from where the road trip continues up along the Pacific coast towards one of the best-known destinations within Costa Rica, Manuel Antonio National Park.
There are many opportunities for breaks along the way. If you have enough time, visiting the Nauyaca Waterfalls for sure would be a great idea (we were too late to get admission, as it is only open until 15.30 hrs and you have to schedule about 1-2 hours to walk to the falls).
Another nice stop is the surfer village Dominical, where you can spend time at the large beach, stroll through the village or of course get surf lessons. For a nice and healthy lunch, Café Mono Congo is a delicious option.
DAY 6 - MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK TO MONTEVERDE (185KM / 3 HOURS)
Early in the morning, it is time to head to the national park entrance to avoid the crowds.
You will encounter many natural guides who want to be booked for a tour through the park. If you are eager to see a lot of wildlife and get some additional information, this might be a good option. As we prefer to walk our own pace and like to take a lot of pictures, we decided to explore the park on our own.
There is a great variety of paths through the national park, that lead to different beaches and stunning view points. Maps are at your disposal throughout the park. If you are observant, you will most likely come across sloths, toucans and other typical wildlife of Costa Rica.
If you are longing for a cooling-down, Playa Manuel Antonio is a nice option, where you will even find restrooms and showers.
Good to know: The national park is closed on Tuesdays. Tickets are only available online (as of December 31st, 2021).
On the way from Manuel Antonio to Monteverde, you might want to take a short break at Rio Grande de Tárcoles, where you can spot a lot of crocodiles below the bridge. Quite a scary sight...
DAY 7 - MONTEVERDE TO PLAYA TAMARINDO (165KM / 3 HOURS)
Waking up in Monteverde automatically means feeling a bit chillier. This cloud forest reserve is located at an altitude of 1500 metres above sea level.
There are plenty of available activities, from suspension bridges to ziplining to simply hiking through the biological reserve of Monteverde. If you are not afraid of heights, the first two options for sure are great. I picked the hiking option though.
The entrance fee to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve is rather expensive (in March 2021 USD 25) compared to what you get. There is a range of hiking trails and one suspension bridge (which was closed at the time we visited).
The hikes through the mystical cloud forest are however well maintained, the lookout points offer amazing views over the lush landscape and if you are a bit lucky, you might even spot some beautiful birds including the national bird Quetzal.
DAY 8 & 9 - PLAYA TAMARINDO
The next two days are entirely dedicated to relaxation at the beach (eating, sunbathing, reading, dip in the sea).
However, make sure to also take a stroll along Playa Tamarindo, as especially during sunset this is an absolutely breathtaking scenery. Also, the village Tamarindo offers a nice variety of shops and restaurants worth to be checked out.
In my opinion, it is the perfect place for a short getaway during your road trip and I loved to stay in the wonderful Capitán Suizo, which has the best location at the end of the bay and also some of the best food we had during our holidays in Costa Rica. In the mornings you most likely don't need an alarm clock, as the monkeys in the tropical hotel garden will wake you up in a natural way.
DAY 10 - PLAYA TAMARINDO TO TENORIO NATIONAL PARK (150KM / 2.45 HOURS)
From the Pacific coast at sea level, it is now time again to head inland towards the area of Tenorio National Park, which consists of different rain forest and cloud forest types as well as the volcanoTenorio.
Staying at Celeste Mountain Lodge is a great idea, for many different reasons: The lodge has its own hiking paths within the national park, the food is absolutely delicious and you have the opportunity to go on different night walks to spot the nocturnal animals of Costa Rica. Moreover, the lodge location is excellent, since it is less than 10 minutes away from the official entrance to Rio Celeste.
DAY 11 - TENORIO NATIONAL PARK TO LA FORTUNA (80KM / 2 HOURS)
It is time for another one of my personal highlights of the trip - a visit to Rio Celeste, well known from many social media pictures.
After you paid the entry fee at the official entrance you will be able to follow a oneway hiking path to different spots. The entire trail is about 5 kilometres long. Apart from Rio Celeste Waterfall, there are several viewpoints, some small suspension bridges and the merging of two brownish rivers to become the turquoise-coloured Rio Celeste.
It is highly recommendable to visit this trail as early in the morning as possible, since it can get rather crowded, especially during peak season. Make sure to bring sturdy and waterproof footwear.
DAY 12 - ARENAL NATIONAL PARK
This national park offers a range of hiking trails to the different eruption sites of Arenal volcano. Moreover, the abundance of wildlife is impressive. The volcano is still said to be active, however there have not been any eruptions since 2010.
There are separate entry fees for the different eruption sites. We decided to visit the one from 1968, which usually is supposed to be a highly frequented path. Due to the ongoing pandemic it was rather empty though and once again we decided to go on the trail without a guide.
You will get perfect views of Arenal volcano and will be impressed by the flora growing on the volcanic soil. If you are lucky (or unlucky, depending on how you put it), you will even see some reptiles or other animals along the way.
DAY 13 - THERMAL SPRINGS AND LA FORTUNA WATERFALL
Another highlight of the area around La Fortuna are the numerous hot springs. Either you can visit them by purchasing an insanely pricey entry ticket to one of the managed hot springs around town. Expect to pay an entry fee between USD 40 to 100.
We were not willing to pay such a high price, but instead decided to follow a locals' suggestion to walk a bit upstream where the same hot spring that feeds one of the most expensive hotels, also runs through. That way, we only paid USD 5 to the local for taking care of our vehicle whilst we were enjoying a very natural hot spring experience. Apart from all the garbage that was scattered along the forest path, this is an amazing way to relax in the famous thermal waters.
The afternoon was spent at a famous waterfall, the La Fortuna Waterfall, where the water drops about 70 metres into a beautiful, natural pool. To reach the bottom of the falls you will have to climb down approximately 500 steps (which at some point you will have to get back up again...). There are no elevators, so make sure that you are fit enough for this exercise.
DAY 14 - LA FORTUNA TO LLANO BONITO (80KM / 1.45 HOURS)
The last destination on the road trip is easily reachable within less than 2 hours from La Fortuna. Along the way, there is a another impressive waterfall, La Toro, which can be visited. A nice, but rather steep path leads to the bottom of the falls, which is absoluely worth the effort. The colours of the surroundings are popping and the atmosphere is just magical.
Back at the top you may want to add another small loop through the lush gardens of the private property where you can observe many birds and beautiful flowers.
A perfect stop before reaching Chayote Lodge for our last night in Costa Rica.
DAY 15 - POAS VOLCANO & HACIENDA ALSACIA COFFEE FARM TO SAN JOSÉ (90km / 2.20 HOURS)
Filled with one last Gallo Pinto, the typical Costa Rican dish consisting of beans, rice, plantains and many more sides, which is served for breakfast every day, we are heading towards the airport. However, not without ticking off two more sights from our Costa Rica bucket list.
Poas volcano is the first stop. You need to book the entry tickets online in advance as there is no ticket office at the entrance. After a maximum of 30 minutes you will have to leave the crater lake view point again (safety precautions). It is totally worth the visit, as the still active volcano is quite impressive.
Next up is one of the coffee farms, which can mainly be found in the provinces of Heredia and Alajuela, quite close to the countries capital (and airport). To round off two amazing weeks travelling through versatile Costa Rica, Hacienda Alsacia Coffee Farm is the perfect spot for a delicious coffee with a view. Pura Vida!
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