Ecuador somehow still seems to be extremely unpopular and underrated when it comes to classical travel destinations. To be honest, Ecuador only became an option as I wanted to go on a boat trip through the Galapagos Islands.
However, this approach towards travels in Ecuador should definitely be changed, as this small South American country has so much potential in itself.
After arriving in Quito, it is highly recommendable to spend a few days in the city to get adapted to the altitude (since the airport in Quito is already located at more than 2800 metres above sea level). It may not sound extreme, but definitely should not be underestimated. Altitude sickness can strike anyone.
Getting a rental car in Ecuador doesn't seem to be the most common way of travelling through the country, however for the road along the Andes, it is the perfect means of travel and gives you a lot of flexibility to discover the beautiful landscape.
IN A NUTSHELL
MY TOP 3 SIGHTSEEING TIPS:
La Mitad del Mundo
Quilotoa Laguna
Hiking to Refugio Whymper, Chimborazo
STAY
The best time to visit the Andes in Ecuador is between June and September, which is the dry season. However, be prepared for strongly changing temperatures and thus make sure to bring clothes suitable for layering. Especially in the higher areas above 4500 metres above sea level you can expect to encounter snow. Since most visitors usually combine the stay in the Andes with a trip to the Galapagos Islands, a compromise in terms of the season might be necessary (best time to visit the Galapagos is during rainy season between January and June).
LENGTH OF STAY
Depending on your holiday plans, a stay between 2 and 3 weeks in Ecuador is ideal. For the road trip through the Andes, I would suggest to allow for about 7 to 10 days. If you are eager to go on more challenging hikes (maybe even multi-day hikes), increase the duration especially for the acclimatisation period.
WHERE TO STAY
In the larger cities such as Quito, Cuenca or Baños you will have a great choice between different accommodation types, from hostels to luxury hotels. In the more rural areas, the options are limited and rather simple. The smaller accommodations, so called "Haciendas" are often family-owned and you will be welcomed warm-heartedly. This is a great way to get in touch with the locals and to learn more about their culture.
DAY 1 & 2 - QUITO
Quito's old town is a stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site, where you can discover lots of well-preserved sacral buildings such as the Basilica San Francisco or the Jesuit Church La Compañía. Also the main square Plaza de la Independencia or the Basilica del Voto Nacional are worth a visit.
If you are looking for a place to eat a bite or to have a drink, the pedestrian area La Ronda in the old town is a charming street. Another option would be the neighbourhood La Mariscal, which is located in the new town. Apart from a huge variety of restaurants, bars, cafés and hostels, you will also find a large artisan market which is open seven days a week and is an excellent place to shop for souvenirs or just some local snacks.
The best view point to enjoy the scenic city from above is definitely Cruz Loma on almost 4000 metres above sea level, which can be reached by the cable car TelefériQo. If the weather is clear, you will have views all the way to the volcanos Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antisana. There are some short walking paths as well as the ascent to Rucu Pichincha (4698 metres above sea level) and even some downhill trails for mountain biking.
A daytrip which is highly recommendable is the visit of La Mitad del Mundo, the middle of the world. It is about 25 kilometres north of Quito and easily reachable by either rental car or on a guided tour. It is a rather touristy place, but quite fun at the same time to experience all the peculiarities that come with "standing on the equator".
Fun Fact: The monument Mitad del Mundo is not exactly on the equator, but about 240 metres south of the actual middle of the world.
If you are looking for a nice place to stay in Quito, I suggest Boutique Hotel Casa El Edén in the Old Town or Ikala Quito Hotel in La Mariscal.
DAY 3 - QUITO TO LATACUNGA / COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK (110KM / 1.45 HOURS)
After a short drive south along the Panamericana, you will reach Latacunga, which is a good area to stay, if you intend to visit Cotopaxi National Park. Cotopaxi is the highest, active volcano in Ecuador and the second highest peak of the country (after Chimborazo).
In case you did not spend a lot of time for acclimatisation yet, make sure to start with some short and flat walks in the national park. One great option is the circumnavigation of Limpioungo Laguna on 3800 metres above sea level. It is an idyllic 3.5 kilometres long walk on a high plateau where you can observe a variety of birds and wild horses as well as some beautiful flora. If you are lucky enough to enjoy sunny weather, the reflection of Cotopaxi in the laguna must be stunning.
For more experienced hikers / climbers, the hike up to the base camp of Cotopaxi, Refugio José Rivas at 4800 metres above sea level or even the ascent to the top of the volcano on 5897 metres are amazing experiences. For the latter, an experienced mountain guide is essential.
DAY 4 - LATACUNGA TO QUILOTOA LAGUNA VIA SIGCHOS (100KM / 2.15 HOURS)
This day has one of my absolutely favourite spots of the Ecuadorian Andes in store.
Get ready for a bumpy drive on mainly unsealed roads. Even though the driving distance is not that long, allow for enough time since the windy roads are challenging. Already along the road you will be rewarded with stunning landspaces and quaint little villages.
The parking spot at the rim of Quilotoa Laguna is located at 3900 metres above sea level, so take it slow again.
There is no entrance fee, but you have to pay for parking (around USD 2-3). To reach the different platforms, where you can enjoy stunning views over the turquoise crater lake, it only takes a few minutes walking. There are many amazing photo opportunities.
If you intend to do a sportier activity, I suggest to either walk the 300 metres down to the lake or to go on a roundtrip hike at the rim of the caldera. The latter takes about 5-6 hours.
We decided to go on the hike down to the crater lake. Make sure to wear sturdy footwear as the path is sandy, stony and rather steep. Depending on the amount of photo stops, the way down will take between 30 and 60 minutes (back up at least double).
Once at the bottom, there is the possibility to rent a kayak to explore the lake from up close. Just bear in mind to schedule enough time for the way back up again. Climbing the 300 metres of elevation in such high altitude literally makes you breathless. If you don't feel like walking all the way back up, there are horses which cost about USD 30 to bring you to the top. However, the way they were treated almost made me cry, thus I can not recommend this means of transportation.
A place to stay which I liked a lot is Hostal Mama Hilda in Chugchilan, located about 30 minutes drive from the lagoon. It is a simple accommodation, but very cosy. There are hammocks on every terrace and a proper fireplace inside the room to keep you warm during the night.
DAY 5 - QUILOTOA LAGUNA TO BAÑOS (155KM / 3.15 HOURS)
On the way from Quilotoa Laguna to Baños we only took a quick break in the rather big city of Ambato (to avoid the hangry mood). There was not much we liked about this place, so we kept the stop short.
After arriving in Baños, enjoy some relaxation time in one of the many hot springs. Several of those are accessible for free, if you are staying at the corresponding hotel. If you are staying in a more budget-friendly accommodation you still have the possibility to pay for a day entry.
Hotel Luna Volcán became rather instafamous due to its infinity pools with a view, as it is located high above the town of Baños. It is a great way to relax from all the previous hiking and driving activities.
They also serve delicious meals in their restaurant, so it is a nice, but rather pricey option to stay at when in Baños.
DAY 6 - BAÑOS
One of the main attractions in the area of Baños, apart from the hot springs, is the "Ruta de las Cascadas", the waterfall route. The entire route runs from Baños (de Agua Santa) to Puyo, which is about 60 kilometres long. The stretch I refer to (and most tour operators do) only runs from Baños to Pailón del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron) and is about 17 kilometres long. A very popular way of exploring this area is by rental bike. Since we had our own rental car though, we decided to go by car.
There are many waterfalls along the road, but due to the rainy weather we decided to only visit the main attraction Pailón del Diablo. This 80 metre high waterfall is accessible from two sides. A small entrance fee has to be paid. The closer you get to the actual waterfall, the more slippery it gets. Once you reach the view point(s) on the round tour, a heavy shower is guaranteed. Proper rain gear is definitely a plus.
When accessing the waterfall from the upper part, there are several suspension bridges to overcome. This is definitely not for the faint-hearted, but absolutely worth it. You are even able to walk behind the falls where you will experience the impressive power of the thundering water from up close. An absolutely awesome experience which is not to be missed.
The second stop of the day was at Casa del Arbol. This tree house became famous because of a swing that got attached to it. Even though there are tons of other swings all over the world, this particular one is absolutely worth the visit. If the weather is fine you are granted with the most amazing views over the volcano Tungurahua. The entrance fee to La Casa del Arbol is only USD 1 (2019) and you are then allowed to use the swing(s) and any other attraction for as long as you like. There is even a little café where you can buy some drinks and snacks.
DAY 7 - BAÑOS TO RIOBAMBA VIA CHIMBORAZO (170KM / 4 HOURS)
Today's mission is to see the highest peak of Ecuador, volcano Chimborazo, from up close. A great way to do that is by driving all the way up to Refugio Carrel, a mountain hut located inside the Chimborazo Wildlife Reserve on 4850 metres above sea level. Be prepared that also your car performance will noticeably decline on such high altitude.
From here it is a 1-kilometre hike with an elevation of 150 metres to reach Refugio Whymper on exactly 5000 metres above sea level. It is a rather flat path, but due to the altitude extremely exhausting. Make sure to go slow and to constantly drink water. If you feel dizzy or get a headache, turn around immediately. Other phenomena of this area are the strong winds and the fast-changing weather conditions.
The hike itself offers stunning views over the sparse landscape and the mighty peak of Chimborazo. Once you reach the hut you will be able to get a stamp in your passport and to enjoy an empañada and yerba maté, a local tea which is said to help with altitude sickness (and apparently lots of other issues).
To stay overnight, I recommend driving all the way to Riobamba where you have a great choice of different accommodations. We stayed at the lovely Hacienda Abraspungo, where you should definitiely also check out the hotel restaurant with delicious, local meals and a cosy atmosphere.
DAY 8 - RIOBAMBA TO QUITO (210KM / 3.15 HOURS)
Before heading back to Quito, which is a rather straight drive mainly along the very well maintained Panamericana, a nice activity is visiting one of the traditional Andean markets in the area. About one hour south of Riobamba lies the small village of Guamote. Every Thursday, a very colourful, indigenous market takes place, which is said to be one of the biggest and most authentic ones in South America and definitely less touristy than the famous market in Otavalo.
It is a very unique experience, but at the same time quite hectic and busy. If you pass by this area on a Thursday though, it is absolutely worth the stop to get a better insight into the life of indigenous people.
ALTERNATIVE DAY 8 & 9 - RIOBAMBA TO CUENCA (260KM / 4.45 HOURS)
If you have some more days available, it is a nice alternative to continue your road trip all the way south to Cuenca.
Along the way there is another highlight of the Ecuadorian Andes, the ride with the Devil's Nose Railway from Alausi to Sibambe, along one of the most spectacular train tracks in the world. The entire trip (from and to Alausi including a stop in Sibambe) takes about 2.5 hours. Tickets should ideally be purchased in advance since this is a popular tourist attraction and there is only a limited number of departures per day. Unfortunately, this stop did not fit into our itinerary.
For Cuenca I suggest a stay of 1 to 2 days to explore this beautiful UNCESCO World Heritage city.
One of the most photogenic sights is The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception with its light blue domes, often referred to as the New Cathedral of Cuenca.
The visit of the interior is free and quite impressive. However, my personal highlight was the view from the roof top, which is accessible for a small fee.
Other highlights of the third largest city of Ecuador include the Panama Hat Museum (Fun Fact: Panama Hats originally come from Cuenca, not Panama), the lush green spaces along the river Tomebamba and the vast array of street art all over the city.
A great accommodation from where you can reach all of the places of interest in Cuenca within short walking distance is the Boutique Hotel Santa Lucia, which wins you over with its beautiful indoor patio.
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